Day 4: Srinagar to Drass via Zojila Pass 21st June '16

This was the day when we would first experience the barrenness and beauty of the Ladakh landscape. This day would lead us from the greenery and glacier strewn landscape of Srinagar & Sonmarg to the barren desert like landscape of Ladakh. We would also be crossing our first and perhaps most difficult pass, the "Zoji La Pass". 

Nitrojains ready to leave Srinagar

The distance from Srinagar to Drass is appx 142km. However we would advice to leave early as there is a Thajiwas glacier near Sonmarg which is a must visit spot. Its a half hour walk from Sonmarg so do make sure you manage your time accordingly. We were lethargic in the morning and left late so unfortunately we did not have time to stop and trek over to the glacier. Till date we regret that we missed trekking to the glacier!

Srinagar to Drass via Sonmarg & Zoji La Pass - 142km

The journey from Srinagar to Sonmarg is amazingly mesmerizing, ridden with mountain streams on one side, lush green mountains on the other and the occasional glaciers / snow by the roadside. It was so beautiful that we made a mental note to visit again, this time with our wife and kids! Kashmir valley is really paradise on earth and can easily compete if not beat Switzerland in its beauty.

Scenic views all around

Beautifully maintained roads by BRO

 You will find the journey so beautiful that you will be tempted to stop every few minutes to click some snaps or just revel in the beauty. Streams are guzzling by almost the entire way and we stopped at one of them to click snaps and also grab a quick bite of sandwiches! The roads are very well maintained and its a pleasure riding along the Srinagar Leh highway.

Many photo opps. Gurgling streams by the roads

Stopover for quick snacks by the riverside 

 Its pretty spectacular viewing 10 bullet bikes together and many people stopped by just to stare at the bikes or take a photo with us. We had many such moments in the limelight on our journey to Leh/Ladakh! 

"Fans" posing with Nitrojains!

Many waterfalls & glaciers on route

 Sonmarg is a major tourist attraction and literally means Meadow of Gold. Its inaccessible during the winters due to heavy snow. Sonmarg has green grass with a backdrop of snowy mountains and cerulean skies! Do remember to visit the Thajiwas glacier if you get time. You can buy saffron and shilajit which is sold by many touts here!

Sonmarg - Meadow of Gold

Amit 'testing' quality of Shilajit sold by a tout

Just a short distance ahead of Sonmarg lies the formidable Zojila Pass. Zojila Pass is only 3,528 metres (11,575 ft) and is the second highest pass after Fotu La on the Srinagar-Leh National Highway. Though it is comparatively much lesser in height than other passes such as Khardungla, what is lacks in height it more than makes up for it in its terrain and difficulty. 

Its a narrow dusty pass which often has passing space for only 1 car! There are also many gushing streams on the pass which you have to cross to go ahead. What makes matter worse is the narrow road and the oncoming traffic! You have to literally weave your way to go ahead. You are also greeted with sheer cliff drops each time you swerve to avoid a pothole, rocks or even ice on the roads! We had our hearts in our mouths the entire time. 

Advice: Use your rear brake only otherwise you will be skidding and may lose control of the bike altogether!

A good strategy is to stay in groups of 3-4 bikes or if you are riding solo, join a convey of bikes which are crossing the pass. Its much easier in a group since the cars stop to give you way and it makes riding a little easier. I got separated from my group in the pass but luckily there was a group of Harley Davidson riders whom I joined. It definitely helped me cross the pass safely.

The mighty Zojila Pass

Zojila Pass beckons a lifetime experience

Thats 10 foot snow at Zojila Pass.

We were pretty lucky that it hadn't rained the previous day nor was it raining that day. We can just imagine how difficult it would have been to cross the pass if it became muddy and slippery! I guess the Gods were with us on the entire journey. 

Nitrojains successfully conquered Zojila Pass!

View from the top of Zojila Pass

 Zojila pass also marks your entry into the Ladakh landscape.You will find the landscape gradually shifting to barren brown and dusty mountains which are a far cry from the lush green Kashmir valley landscape. After crossing Zojila Pass you will come across the Zojila War Memorial which is dedicated to the martyrs of the 1947-48 war with Pakistan. The memorial stands testimony to the remarkable achievement of the Indian Army when they recaptured Zojila on November 1st 1948. 

Paying our respects at the Zojila War Memorial

 There is a checkpost after crossing Zojila towards Drass. You will have to enter your bike and personal details in order to go ahead. Again we found the views breathtaking as there was patches of snow strewn among mixed brown and green landscape.

 Checkpost before Drass

Stopover on route

Checking in to our hotel at night in Drass

Sleeping in the cold climate under a full moon

We reached Drass late in the evening and settled into our hotel. It was bitterly cold and we were glad we had a good place to stay. Drass is a small town with only some 4-5 places to stay. So either book in advance or make sure you reach Drass early. A couple of bikers had no place to stay and we gladly accommodated them along with us.